David Ellis @dvh_ellis1 December 2017

The bad: you might not get in. If it’s busy, they don’t squeeze people into this basement, so either be there early, or bamboozle them with charm, or dazzle them with your brilliant wit. We’re kidding: just take someone hot. The good: pretty much everything else. Naturally, the bar snacks are distractingly tasty, but the drinks list is excellent, and unusual too, with a few historical recipes brought back to life. Attention to detail is everything here, so if you’re not sharing one of the big old Chesterfields, head to the bar and sit and watch – there’s something about it that’s like seeing a cardmaster turn tricks. And have a Hix Fix, just to say you have.

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