A fine feast in the East

Marina O'Loughlin10 April 2012

I've got two people to thank for finding myself eating alone in Mudchute: one is Simon Garner, author of The London Café Book, whose newly-published second tome directed me to Hubbub, and my date who, just as I was drawing up outside, phoned to blow me out.

Having made the trek to the Isle Of Dogs, I wasn't in a hurry to turn on my heels. I don't like solo dining, I'm far too neurotic. But I couldn't have picked a better spot to be stood up than this ramshackle, welcoming little café bar in an old Presbyterian church (now The Space arts centre); despite its very obviously regular clientele, the combination of laid back staff and quirky cosiness made me feel totally at ease.

Twinkling fairy lights, mismatched furniture, sofas and a handwritten blackboard menu give a flavour of Hubbub's appeal: it's amateurish in the original, positive meaning of the word. Thanks to my single state, I can't comment broadly on the food but, if the Milano sausages, rosemary gravy and garlic mash; peppered free-range chicken with Chardonnay cream sauce; or chargrilled rib-eye steak with lime and coriander from the dailychanging menu were anything like as good as my choice, then they're a rare treat.

Mine was a whole smoked haddock, undyed and delicious, on a bed of mash draped with creamy mushrooms and leeks. Soothing, bursting with flavour, cheap (£7ish) and very comforting. Pleasant surroundings, good, reasonably-priced food and no need to make polite conversation.

Hubbub
269 Westferry Road, E14 3AG

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