An Italian flourish

Austin's, aka The A Bar, has added a little Italian flourish to its name since the arrival of Francesco Zanchetta, previously chef at Riva in Barnes. Zanchetta, who worked with Andrea Riva for 16 years, wanted to open a delicatessen, but when that plan failed to materialise he joined forces with James and Susan Dillon, owners of Austin's.

The stylishly converted pub near Twickenham Green is notable for the art on display and the friendly service from the Dillons, but Zanchetta's cooking seems to have lost something in translation.

We were the only customers last Thursday, which seldom helps a kitchen produce its best. But it meant that we had the walled garden at the back to ourselves - apart from two large black cats, which are apparently called Reggie and Ronnie.

Four of us decided to share some of the antipasto - deep-fried courgette flowers with balsamic dressing, which were fine, Cornish white crab meat salad where the shards of crab were scattered in a miserly way over a heap of mixed leaves, seared king scallops with herbs and chilli, which had caramelised nicely in the pan, and a selection of cured meats with marinated vegetables. A dollop of mostarda di frutta helped jolly that up. Lovely homemade bread, such as corn bread, was served warm with olive oil for dipping.

Main courses, mostly roasts and grills, included rabbit in a grain mustard sauce with a careless garnish of roasted peppers and courgettes, a mild-mannered veal chop with slow-cooked fennel in breadcrumbs and a daily special of suckling pig with roast potatoes. It was serviceable food but not much more than that. We didn't try any pasta or risotto, which may well be exemplary.

Desserts include a chocolate confection, tiramisu and panna cotta with limoncello but also a blackcurrant sauce, which drowned out any lemony flavour.

I happened to have celebrated my birthday a few days before with dinner at Riva, where the new chef produced the sort of imaginative and authentic assemblies that Francesco was sending out when he was there. "It's all in my head," said Andrea Riva. It must be true.

Austini's
93 Colne Road, Twickenham, TW2