Aster, Victoria: Cool Nordic vibes at buzzy new hotspot

Nordic and French cuisine come together at Victoria Street’s Aster
Ben Norum10 December 2017

The transformation of Victoria’s dining scene is well underway. New ETM pub The Greenwood has opened. Jason Atherton has arrived. And now a vast new venue has brought the area a restaurant, café, bar and deli all rolled into one.

This venue is Aster, the latest opening from D&D London. It is led by Finnish chef Helena Puolakka and serves food inspred by Nordic the countries of Norway, Sweden and Finalnd, as well France all across its vast array of breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner menus.

The menus aren’t all that’s vast. The two-floor, 10,000 square foot venue is a sight to behold. The downstairs channels France rather than Finland, with a marble counter, copper-look fixtures and an overhead hanging clock (similar to that in Grand Central) setting a bustling brasserie tone. Upstairs — where the restaurant menu is served — is more minimalist, making use of its full-length windows to offer views over Victoria. Admittedly the view isn’t particularly scenic but the effect is stylish all the same; more designer Scandi than flatpack furniture.

The food follows suit, with elegant presentation and simply-prepared ingredients chosen over complex assemblies.

Chef: Helena Puolakka

In the main restaurant, a starter that pairs three different types of fish roe with a fluffy potato blini and sour cream is simple but effective, while a beetroot soup is tasty in a pleasingly rustic way.

A main of lamb shoulder, rolled and sliced into discs flanked by rich, melting fat, is served with braised January King lettuce — itself rolled and twirled into a neat leaf shape — and a quintessentially Scandinavian tart lingbonberry jam.

Aster - in pictures

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Desserts include a lemon meringue as well a beetroot sponge and the option of a cheese course matched with rye crackers.

Downstairs you can opt for dishes as diverse as venison pie, cured salmon and pork rolls, while cinnamon buns are on the breakfast menu.

That all adds up to plenty of reasons to had to Aster. Above all, though, people will flock here becuase it’s a sexy site, a slick operation and — well — it’s right opposite the station.

Aster: The lowdown

Final flavour: A cool Nordic restaurant set to be a new hotspot

At what cost? Starters from £7.50, mains from £14.50 and desserts from £5.50.

Visit if you like: German Gymnasium, Aquavit, The Wolseley.

Find it: 150 Victoria Street, SW1E 5LB; aster-restaurant.com.

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