Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill: A polished oyster bar with a thoroughly British fare

British seafood at its best
Fay Maschler4 December 2017

My gaggle of companions for restaurant reviewing includes some people working in the biz. They are ever curious, invariably generous in judgement — and they understand. Oisin Rogers, innkeeper at The Guinea Grill (itself a rewarding destination), grasps the nettle fearlessly but sometimes he will say, let’s just go somewhere good. Bentley’s Oyster Bar is mooted because it is a serious enterprise devoted to prime ingredients treated with wit and brio, and because ebullient Richard Corrigan is a consummate chef and restaurateur — and of course an Irishman. The ground-floor oyster bar is the place to sit, the end table on the left opposite the long marble bar my preference. Oyster-eaters (not me) say the best specimens are found here. Oystermen open them with a skill that could re-invent The Generation Game. Fish soup, fish and chips and a glorious fish pie are all present and correct, but don’t ignore the inventive and sometimes globetrotting dishes of the day. The terrace outside is another asset.

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