Bite me: Orrery’s alumni dinner

Orrery is a rare thing, a good neighbourhood restaurant in the centre of London. From the white tablecloths to the expert sommelier, everything is done with French flair so you can relax into your meal knowing that everything is taken care of.

It’s been open since 1997 but that doesn’t mean it can’t innovate. Next month, on March 21, the restaurant will celebrate its 21st year with a special party.

The restaurant’s alumni are coming back. A one-off ticketed dinner will be cooked by a stellar line-up: chef patron of the Galvin empire, Chris Galvin, alongside André Garrett of Cliveden House and the executive chef of the Swan at Shakespeare’s Globe, Allan Pickett.

They will be cooking in a familiar kitchen that’s had a celebratory spruce. It’s been redesigned with floor-to-ceiling arched windows that look out over St Marylebone Parish Church’s courtyard.

It felt like the right time to invite the old gang to get back together, says resident head chef Igor Tymchyshyn. “I’m honoured to cook in company of this calibre, and look forward to taking our guests through the journey too.”

It’s a five-course affair: begin the evening with the Orrery classic, fillet steak tartare, quail’s egg, sourdough and truffle before Pickett’s fish course of seared sea scallop, caramelised cauliflower purée and florets, golden raisins and spiced oil.

For the main course, Galvin will serve duck, foie gras, pickled turnip and spiced jus, followed by a tableside cheese trolley from resident “frommelier” Anthony Schepper (left). The restaurant is famous for its cheese trolley — there is a magnificent selection. It’s mostly French but they are trying to branch out with cheeses from elsewhere. The goat’s cheese is in season at the moment and creamy with bite and an ashy edge.

Garrett will finish with a dessert of peanut butter mousse, bitter chocolate, lemon, salted caramel and honeycomb. The flavours are subtle and delicate, so you don’t need to pace yourself.

55 Marylebone High Street, W1. Tickets are priced at £95 per person and are available here.