Bukowski, Soho – tried and tasted

Following a successful launch for its first site in Shoreditch’s Boxpark at the end of 2011, Bukowski quickly launched a follow-up in Brixton Market the year after.

A fair bit of time has passed since then, but now chef-owner Robin Freeman has opened site number three — a flagship with a bigger, bolder menu — right in the middle of Soho.

The rough-walled, scuffed-floored space assumes the look of an edgy American diner, with exposed piping, corrugated iron wall panels and reclaimed school-style chairs.

An open kitchen at the back of the elongated space is visible throughout, while a station to one side is used for dispensing beers, slushies and premixed cocktails.

The menu is dominated by wings, ribs and burgers with overloaded fillings — such as the Smokey Beast which features a beef patty, smoked pulled pork, tobacco onions, smoked gherkins and a scotch bonnet mayo. It’s big, gutsy, sloppy and thoroughly enjoyable.

A touch more refined is a beef rib that’s been cooked for 72 hours, served only at the Soho branch. The result is some seriously tender, rosy-hued meat that’s rich with flavour-giving fat.

A waffle pile topped with fried chicken (thigh, for added flavour and moisture) and drizzled with a sprightly green chilli maple syrup is also worth a try.

There’s some fine cooking among the starters selection, too. Plump deep-fried mac and cheese parcels ooze with guilty pleasure; puck nuggets — so called as they blend pork and duck meat — boast soft, rich-flavoured meat, and buffalo cauliflower fritters — tangy, battered chunks of the vegetable with a blue cheese dip — will come as salvation to veggies who thought this kind of food wasn’t for them.

It’s the kind of place where dulche de leche ice cream — utterly delicious — is the lightest option, and milkshakes laced with booze — peanut butter, banana and bourbon, perhaps — are on-hand for those who want something stronger.

Meantime beer is on tap, wines start at £16.95 a bottle and a diverse cocktail selection ranges from those that feature sorbet and copious amounts of fruit to punchy aged Negronis and a smoky Old Fashioned — the latter are surprisingly well made considering.

Final flavour: Messy, meaty good time food that’s more refined than it appears.

At what cost? Very reasonable given the size and location. Starters are £4.50 to £6.15 while burgers start at £6.95.

Visit if you like: Patty & Bun, Foxlow, Bodean’s.

Find it: 10 D'Arblay Street, W1F 8DS; bukowski-grill.co.uk

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