Chiltern Firehouse, review: Not Leonardo DiCaprio? You can still eat crab doughnuts

This A-lister hotspot does dangerously good French toast too
Tim Clinch
Ailis Brennan11 December 2017

If you’re not Leonardo DiCaprio, we have some good news for you: you can probably just about get into Chiltern Firehouse now.

This party-scene hotspot opened in 2014 to find an army of A-listers on its doorstep. For hype, the Marylebone restaurant and hotel cannot be paralleled, and the food from Nuno Mendes takes some clout to beat it too.

Last minute free tables are still a little hard to come by, so your best bet for a booking is at breakfast. This is not to say, however, that you’re short-changed. The French toast is disarmingly good, fluffy to the point of borderline obscenity. Cornish crab & lobster omelette is an ode to its constituents’ delicate flavour (too often is lobster left struggling for air).

Crab makes its mark more than once at Chiltern Firehouse: one of its most talked about dishes (and everything is talked about) are the crab doughnuts, which continue the trend for feather-light batter, this time packed with creamy crabmeat lifted with a picante punch. An added perk to the crab doughnuts is that you can get them at the bar – no table, no problem.

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