Comptoir Libanais: Bringing mezze to the masses

The restaurant group may be a full on chain now, but it still has Eastern allure
Expansion plan: There are now 10 Comptoir Libanais restaurants in central London, and others elsewhere
Kate O'Sullivan12 December 2017

It’s a little over eight years since the first Comptoir Libanais arrived in Marylebone, and the group has just opened its 10th central London site (they’re also in Heathrow and Gatwick).

There are more on the way, too, funded by an £8m stock market flotation last summer. So, how do the restaurants fare now that they sit well and truly in the chain category? And now that its Levant-inspired mezze is far more commonplace.

Walking through the door at the new Gloucester Road branch is like stepping into a bazaar. Arabian lamps, vibrant coloured handbags and Middle Eastern cookbooks line the walls. At closer inspection everything has a price tag, so you can shop while you eat. It’s novel and fun, if inauthentic: anyone who has been to that part of the world will tell you it’s an exclusively price-fluid barter zone.

Hummus and baba ganoush — both much-loved mezze mainstays — are on the money, both richly flavoured and plentiful. The latter is topped with crunchy pomegrante seeds, while the hummus benefits from a lavish glug of good olive oil.

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They are both betrayed by their supposed ally, though: the pita bread provided to mop them up tastes shop-bought and has none of the doughy, fluffy, warm goodness you’d hope for.

Thankfully other staples are better seen to. Classic falafel is the right amount of crumbly without tipping over to dry and comes with a tangy tahini sauce, while haloumi marinated in thyme and mint is beautifully textured — a refreshingly different take on the classic vegetarian staple. Another highlight for the veggies is a warm and rich aubergine tagine with fluffy couscous and plenty of seasoning.

The standout comes about at the end of the meal; the Levant does puds well and Comptoir Libanais is no exception. A tahini brownie is gooey and sweet with the sesame seed slicing straight through the chocolate. Its Tahini and Pistachio icing is a match made in Lebanon and not to be missed.

Comptoir do what they do well in a fun and playful environment. It’s true that there’s something for everyone, but it has managed to dodge becoming too prescriptive and keeps its creativity and soul.

All that’s really missing is the region’s famously morrish bread.

Comptoir Libanais: The lowdown

Final flavour: This growing chain has maintained its Eastern allure

At what cost? Mezze start at £3.25

Visit if you like: Yalla Yalla, Maroush.

Find it: 77a Gloucester Road, SW7 4SS (and other locations); comptoirlibanais.com.

Visit standard.co.uk/restaurants for the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

Follow Kate O'Sullivan on Twitter @kateeosullivan

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