COYA Angel Court, review: London's fallen in lust with Peruvian

Peruvian food gets a sophisticated twist in the City
Ailis Brennan11 December 2017

Londoners loves Peruvian food, but COYA makes them lust after it.

While Andean favourites like Ceviche and Senor Ceviche jigged into town, COYA sauntered. The jewel-toned, low-lit surroundings of both their original Mayfair site and their new City venue at Angel Court are alluring, and the fare hugely satisfying.

From the off, Angel Court’s bar is a tempting prospect. Glistening Incan-style decanters of unknown golden-hued liquids glow from the rich cyan décor (COYA’s other outposts are in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, you can see why), and the cocktail list looks pretty good too.

A Pisco Sour is obligatory and resistance is foolish – choose from versions infused with intriguing flavours, including Chicha Morada, a Peruvian liquor made with purple corn. Heat seekers should head straight for the Aji Margarita – El Jimador tequila infused with jalapeno and aji panca, an apple and avocado puree with agave syrup and lime that comes as spicy as you dare.

Ceviche heads up the menu, as one would expect, but don’t neglect its sashimi-influenced counterpart, the tiradito. At COYA, the Hiramasa tiradito is arguably the don’t-miss dish: silky slices of Kingfish are served with a brothy mouthful of dashi, chives and truffle.

It’s a close run competition with COYA’s steak selection. A Chilean Wagyu sirloin is a difficult thing to turn down, but the £95 price tag makes the decision for many – within easier reach is the Solomillo de Res, a spiced beef fillet topped with crispy shallots rocoto chilli, a superb cut of meat flavoured excellently. Finish off the evening with a taster of COYA’s sake selection, and try to avoid leaving for as long as possible.

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