Dalloway Terrace, Bloomsbury – tried and tasted

David Ellis is taken with the terrace's charms at this picturesque spot
Beautiful: the terrace is all the more winning in person
David Ellis @dvh_ellis12 December 2017

The stuffy, insecure bore that was Mrs Dalloway seems something of an odd choice of character for a place to be named for, but the Bloomsbury Set connection must have been too much to resist.

Happily this restaurant seems to share few of her characteristics, and whereas Woolf’s Dalloway spun a day out to intolerable lengths, here an evening flicked by in moments. There is, then, one similarity to admit between the restaurant and its namesake: both are excellent hosts.

Style and surrounds

The terrace’s charms are why you come: leaning against the handsome Bloomsbury hotel, and through its railway lounge entrance hall, this narrow heated strip has its walls and ceiling dressed in rich green furs of climbing flowers, bunches of purples pinned like brooches, the room lit with candles. French bistro chairs sit to marble table tops, while heaters add a little orange into everything, lulling one to calmness. On a biting, raining March evening, it felt cosy, romantic; long, boozy lunches in the summer under a rolled back roof with the windows wide open would be heavenly, friendly.

On the menu

Light breakfasts run from seven until 11. From midday, an all-day menu is on into the night. On it is British cooking, fairly upmarket, largely UK sourced, with hints of French dusted about. Pigs cheek with mustard crème fraîche and apple and raisin chutney is the best of the starters, rich as cheek should be, the easily paired flavours a comfort.

For fish-lovers: Salmon steak

Mains will feed fish-lovers, with lemon sole, sea bass, scallops and tiger prawns all putting in a performance. Elsewhere, it’s simplicity: a burger, a steak, veal shin pie, mushroom risotto. Specials change daily, and offer the likes of roast trout, roast chicken, poussin, pigeon.

Food plays second place to the setting, almost an inevitability, but holds up its end well enough. Small plates are available too and, in fact, the terrace is perfectly set up for grazing with a cocktail, and probably a few glasses of wine. They’ve also a cigar menu.

Something sweet

Again, Britannia rules, with lemon tart, Bakewell tart and chocolate fondant to finish things, alongside Dorset ice cream, a cheese board and a Crème brûlée (to keep up that French hint).

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Liquid libations

Plenty of cocktails on hand. The house, Mrs Dalloway, is a classic champagne cocktail (champagne, cognac, sugar, bitters), well balanced, Perrier-Jouet a nice choice of fizz for its zesty, citrus notes, light against the brandy. The entire cocktail menu is classic – expect to put away the likes of Bloody Mary’s, Manhattans, Old Fashioneds, Tom Collinses and Hot Toddies, all mixed with top shelf spirits.

Most reds, whites and roses can be had by the glass, carafe or bottle, a welcome touch. The whites offer better value, with the range more interesting at lower prices than the reds. Still, we had a lovely, straightforward St Emilion Grand Cru (Château Petit Val), plummy, just a little spice, and about fairly marked up at £28 for a carafe. If you make friends with the staff – always the best way to dine – they may let you in on some of the excellent spirits they have off menu, if you fancy a nightcap.

Dalloway Terrace: The Lowdown

Final flavour: Simple, upscale British fare served in a beautiful, but relaxed, setting

At what cost? Starters around £9, mains around £16 - £28, puddings £7, cocktails from £8, wine from about £21 a bottle.

Find it: 16-22 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NN, dallowayterrace.com

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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