Dishoom Carnaby: A Bombay blockbuster

Small plates come with small price tags but big flavours at this slick Indian restaurant group
Ben Norum12 December 2017

If Dishoom has taught us anything in recent years, it’s that when someone says “Bacon naan roll?”, you say “yes” – and then you hug them. The Bombay café sensation has hit the spot for many an Indian cuisine lover. London is curry house aplenty, and has an increasing array of fabulous Indian fine-dining restaurants – Dishoom is a bit of both and chic as hell with it.
Dishoom has blended a menu of delicately spiced yet satisfying dishes with carefully conceived yet necessarily casual settings – think a cross between a European grand café and a particularly tidy souk. If you’re looking for a list of curries up to your elbow, you’ve come to the wrong place. Dishoom’s menu is a smorgasbord of Indian delicacies, of which you’re encouraged to try as many as your belt buckle will allow: spicy lamb chops are marinated in lime juice and jaggery, warming dark spices with ginger and garlic and the house black daal holds its own as a signature dish, cooked for over 24 hours. You can, of course, get your Ruby Murray fix: their chicken Ruby is as tender as it is creamy with deep layerings of smouldering spice.
It is in the mornings, however, that you’ll find the real revelation. A few years ago, an Indian restaurant may not have been your first choice for brunch, but one bite of the now legendary bacon naan (bread cooked fresh to order and bacon supplied by The Ginger Pig butchers) and you’ll never look at a sarnie in the same way again.

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