Diyarbakir Kitchen, review: as much lamb as you can shake a kebab at

From the doorstep, Diyarbakir Kitchen is a game of two halves. To your left the counter is laden with soon-to-be kebabs – fresh cuts of meats, glistening with the promise of your future full belly – that are enthusiastically dragged to the spit on command. To the right, is a really rather pleasant dining room: spacious, light and contemporarily decorated, a world away from the flames but still casual enough to loaf happily.

At the very heart of Green Lanes – London’s Little Turkey – Diyarbakir Kitchen serves up kebab in any formation or combination you can divine. Lamb comes diced, minced, from chops to ribs, on pide (Turkish pizza), in bread parcels with cheese and tomato sauce and frequently drizzled with hot butter: sorry vegetarians, this is one for the carnivores.

Portions are more than adequate and almost everything comes with generous lashings of salad and hot grilled pita – it appears sporadically and willingly and you’re not quite sure what warranted it but you’re pleased to see it.

Take note: there are two much-lauded Diyarbakirs in the vicinity – this is the one where comfort food best matches comfortable dining.