Elystan Street: A balance of earthiness and elegance

Relaxed atmosphere with a contemporary take on European dining
Fay Maschler28 March 2019

After working for 25 years at The Square — holding two Michelin stars for 17 of them — at the age of 50 when most chefs slip out of their whites into something more managerial, Phil Howard — in a striped pinny — goes on cooking. Last year, with his business partner Rebecca Mascarenhas, he opened Elystan Street in Chelsea revealing in studiedly casual no-tablecloth décor and sprightly, nourishing, salubrious menus that he has not been unaware of changes in customer preferences and their awareness of vigour and healthiness in restaurant meals. Howard’s culinary taste is almost pitch-perfect and the balance of earthiness and elegance in the dishes is ever delicate. Getting to work past Andrea’s greengrocer could provide inspiration. These ingredients and skills come at a cost (to us) but set-price lunch is a relative bargain and Phil Howard sprung free is a treat worth saving for. Consider warm salad of guinea fowl with cauliflower, shaved mushrooms, liver crumble and hazelnuts.

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