Fay Maschler's week in food, from Soutine to Chang's Noodle

Messy business: Ajo blanco with asparagus, Marinda tomatoes and bottarga by Rowley Leigh
Fay Maschler1 May 2019

An email from Infatuation London champions Chang’s Noodle in Bloomsbury, where chow mian with lamb Xinjiang style tops the far too many dishes I order in my excitement.

Haddock goujons with tartare sauce at Soutine in St John’s Wood, the latest grand café from Christopher Corbin and Jeremy King of The Wolseley — and also Brasserie Zédel — fame.

After a performance of Handel and the Rival Queens by the splendid Early Opera Company at St John’s Smith Square, tagliatelle with guinea fowl ragu at Osteria dell ’Angolo.

At a pledgers’ dinner for Rowley Leigh’s terrific cookbook, A Long and Messy Business, published by Unbound, ajo blanco with asparagus, Marinda tomatoes and bottarga, prepared by himself.

Saturday Brunch at Jesse Dunford Wood’s nicely rackety Parlour in Kensal Green includes “Back Door” house-smoked salmon and fabulous soda bread.

Fay Maschler's favourite restaurants of 2018

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