Franzina Trattoria, Brixton: Travel to Sicily in a shipping container
Perhaps in a dystopian post-Article 50 future, cut-off Londoners will resort to smuggling European produce across the channel in unmarked shipping containers to avoid sky-high duties.
If so, goods from Sicily should be high on the list to cram in. The olives, wines and oils from Italy’s southern tip have to be among the continent’s most alluring.
Take off your balaclava for the time being, though. It’s not yet necessary to go full smuggler for a taste of what one of these containers might look like. Instead, just head to Pop Brixton where Franzina Trattoria has turned its upper deck unit into a snug tavern modelled on those of the island’s capital, Palermo.
It is run by wife and husband team Stefania and Pietro Franz — she’s front-of-house, he’s in the kitchen — and has been serving for around seven months. Its menu kicks off with street food-style small plates called schiticchio before launching into pastas and risottos.
To begin, the wise choice is a platter which takes in sfincione, a fluffy Sicilian focaccia topped with anchovies, tomato and onion, as well as plump green olives, a tangy caponata, juicy deep-fried balls of aubergine, and croquette-esque chickpea fritters called cazzilli e panelle.
You may also want to throw in an arancina for good measure. In fact, you must. This Sicilian version will likely be different to others you’ve had in London: proportioned like a Scotch egg and filled with a rich beef ragu — like an epic bolognese ball.
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The bulk of the pasta is tagliatelle, a reflection of what’s eaten in Sicily. The best may well be the simplest: a sauce of slightly sweet confit tomato lavished with soft shavings of ricotta and mint leaves. Yep, the mint leaves sound odd. But they work. The dish sings with a fresh, seasonal spring-ness and isn’t remotely like mouthwash.
If you’re more inclined to earthy flavours, the combination of porcini mushrooms and thickly sliced black truffle in a slightly light cream sauce may be more your bag.
There’s no shortage of temptation to be greedy, but do save at least a slither of space for pudding. Just for the sfingette. For those who you yet to be enlightened, these are mini Sicilian doughnuts. Here they are served in the traditional way, with a sweetened sheep’s ricotta for dipping — plus a sprinkling of milk chocolate chips.
You might be tempted to share a portion. But that would be a decision to regret.
Do share a bottle of the restaurant’s excellent and interesting Sicilian wine, though. Nero di lupo is earthy and edgy — as so many Sicilian reds are — gaining sexy, subtle muddy flavours from its biodynamic production (Sicily is the natural wine capital of Italy) and a unique minerality from the island’s volcanic soil.
On second thoughts, maybe you should get one of those each, too…
Franzina Trattoria: The lowdown
Final flavour: Sicilian home cooking in a shipping container.
At what cost? Small plates from £5.50, or the schiticchio platter for £10. Larger plates from £7.50. Puddings £5.
Visit if you like: Bocca di Lupo, Padella, Luce e Limoni.
Find it: Pop Brixton, 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ; franzinatrattoria.com.
