Frog by Adam Handling: Theatreland has a new smash hit on its hands

Adam Handling’s second Frog restaurant puts him a hop, skip and a jump ahead of his contemporaries 
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Ben Norum31 January 2018

Already a familiar face from a stint on MasterChef: The Professionals back in 2013, Adam Handling launched his first Frog restaurant at the Old Truman Brewery last summer before hopping over to Covent Garden for this second amphibious offering.

Once again, it’s all about creative combinations served with plenty of theatrical fanfare and strictly no fussiness. Indeed, several of the original outpost's most popular dishes have made it onto the menu here, too.

There’s veal tartare served on a crunchy seaweed crisp with salty oyster leaves as part of a procession of snacks to kick things off. To follow, warm sourdough comes with outrageously good chicken butter that has been whipped to a dreamy lightness and topped with crispy skin. And back too are Adam’s near infamous cheese and truffle doughnuts which are as messily gooey as they are gregariously delicious.

Among many new highlights is a dish of perfectly moist halibut in a rich crab sauce, and another simply called Black Potato which is effectively a whole plate of buttery mash given its striking colour and a subtle charred flavour from the addition of leek ash - comfort food at its most accomplished.

Smart casual: Adam Handling has settled in Covent Garden

A chocolate pudding with a secret gooey raspberry marshmallow centre is the kind of finale that would make Willy Wonka proud.

There are five and eight-course tasting menus, for £65 and £80 respectively, along with the the option of matched wines, cocktails or non-alcoholic cocktails. Alternatively, you can go down a tapas-style small plates route and order as much or as little as you like.

Whatever you do, you’re in for a treat. Adam Handling has cooked up a restaurant that is stylish, buzzy and befitting of a special occasion while remaining resolutely relaxed.

As if that wasn’t enough, it just happens to be serving some of the most interesting dishes in town. Theatreland has a new smash hit on its hands.

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