Galvin at The Athenaeum, Mayfair – tried and tasted

British brasserie fare finely done comes as part of the hotel's grand makeover...
Own place: the room doesn't feel too much like a hotel restaurant
David Ellis @dvh_ellis10 December 2017

Fashion comes and goes, history stays put.

The Athenaeum, on Piccadilly, is part of the quiet old guard of London luxury, one of those five-star hotels with a name that everyone half-recognises for no particular reason. Once owned by the Rank Organisation, guests today walk the same halls Elizabeth Taylor and Marlon Brando did (Kim Kardashian too, to bring things up to date).

Recently thoroughly renovated, they’ve partnered with The Galvin Brothers, Chris and Jeff, to look after the hotel’s catering – all of it, every last plateful, from breakfast through to supper and round through the night. This must, then, surely be some of the finest room service in London.

Style and surrounds

The main restaurants sits in a room fresh from its redesign. There are touches of its history: the parquet flooring and paintings suggest the 30s, while vivid streaks of colour in the furniture keep things modern. Pleasingly, the impression is not especially one of being in a hotel: there are no guests trailing past, no overhead check-ins. This is important as the Galvin name is displayed proudly, to entice passers-by, so to feel like its own restaurant matters. It seems comfortable to be comfortable: there are no tablecloths, no glitz, no fussing. Luxury with its collar undone. Just make sure to sit in the middle: the larger booths at the back, though comfy, feel a little away from things – ideal if you want privacy, not so hot for atmosphere.

Presentation plating: smoked salmon

On the menu

The Galvins built their reputation across the capital with the likes of Windows, Bistrot de Luxe and La Chapelle – a beautiful diamond of a place – all of which mix French and British cooking to varying degrees. The food here is more straightforwardly British, reflecting the hotel itself, though there are splashes of flavour from across the globe.

Executive chef William Lloyd-Baker clearly keeps his kitchen in good shape and meals come carefully done. Even the simplest of things – say,smoked salmon to start – come beautifully presented, in this instance elegant and simple, jewelled with caviar. Of caviar, there are two choices for thpse wanting to indulge, eiter Exmoor or the more subtle, and rather better, Oscietra. You’re paying either £150 or £170 for the pleasure: a reminder that this is a place for understanded extravagance.

For mains, the belly of pork with black pudding, and an apple and hazelnut salad is perfect autumnal fare: cooked moist, the black pudding adding a bit of pepper and bite to the dish, the salad textured and offering up a little sweetness. A tuna burger is keenly salted but this is tempered by the white cabbage slaw and avocado it’s plated with. Elsewhere, the mains are fairly straightforward: chicken, beef, lamb and lobster are all left unfiddled with. In short, the food here is simple and classic: foodies wanting a brand new explosions of flavour might leave a little disappointed, but anyone who simply wants an evening where everything is comfortable and enjoyable will be sated.

Simple but effective: the menu is built on classic British flavours

Something sweet

The theme is continued: classics cooked simply, and with skill. The list runs like a roll-call of old school indulgences, including the likes of rum baba with vanilla cream, raspberry trifle, chocolate mousse, and the obligatory cheese board on the menu. There’s an impressive looking ice-cream sundae – vanilla, lemon and blackcurrant – which is piled high and very sweet. One is plenty to share between two: portions are sizeable throughout the meal.

A little different: Jubilee curry

Liquid libations

True to the Galvin’s excellent form, the wine list is a cracking one. It’s short, and while not exaclty exotic, is finely put together. They’ve relied on familiar regions, but found some excellent expressions from each, and priced them fairly. It’s a list that helps lift the food, and keeps the brasserie feeling decidedly upmarket. A decent handful of wines can be ordered in carafes, as well as by the glass, which is a nice touch. A couple of English wines also show up on the menu in another tip to the hotel’s heritage.

The best food in London

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Galvin at The Athenaeum: the lowdown

Final flavour: Classic British brasserie in modern surroundings.

Follow David Ellis on Twitter @dvh_ellis

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