Gymkhana: Indian fine-dining with flair

A Mayfair Indian full of splendour, modelled on the Colonial sports clubs of yesteryear
Ben Norum11 December 2017

If you don’t know your chukka from your chatpatta, Gymkhana is the place to learn. This Indian restaurant comes from the team behind Trishna and Hoppers – an impressive run, but this elegant dining room might just take the trophy. Gymkhana is modelled on the Colonial sports clubs of the centuries gone by. The interior is astutely polished, and everything seems terribly polite – that is, until you get to the quite extraordinary food.
Within these neat walls are served the flavours of northern India, to a standard so high that Gymkhana earnt a Michelin star in 2014 and has retained it ever since. Bold flavours are the business here, with the restaurant specialising in “chatpaata”, the hot and sour side of Indian cooking. Sharing is the principle here, but it’ll be difficult to let go. A slow-cooked duck Chettinad rules the roost on the nashta (or snacks) menu, served with coconut chutney and a buttery dosa, and can be enjoyed with a much-lauded biryani of wild Muntjac, served with a pomegranate mint raita. For those who can’t leave an Indian restaurant without curry, the chicken butter masala is a tantalising prospect. Friday nights will never be the same again.

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