Koya Bar: Dipping, dripping noodles done up in a wide variety of flavour

A straightforward noddle bar dishing out fat, delicious Udon
Fay Maschler7 December 2017

My two favourite Mom & Pop Japanese restaurants — Sushi-Say and The Shiori that offered a kaiseki menu — have seen the chefs and their wives return to Japan. Junya Yamasaki whose BackBench at Koya (the original) was a gastronomic revelation has also gone back. There’s Umu and The Iraki that I can’t afford, wondrous Sushi Tetsu where getting a booking is torment, and Dinings where I’m waiting to see the effect of the new branch — so lovely Koya Bar. Fat udon noodles, the wheat dough kneaded by foot, wriggle at the centre of the operation. Whatever the weather they can be hot with hot broth, cold with hot broth or cold with dipping and pouring sauces plus garnishes. When alone or your date is on the phone, watching the chefs noodling behind the long counter can be agreeably meditative. Small plates of pickles, salads, and tempura and seasonal daily specials provide constant variety and diversion. Breakfast is great. Try kedgeree or rice porridge.

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