Le Bab, Soho – tried and tasted

Kebabs go gastro at a smoky new Soho hotspot
One head is better for two: Pig's head to share at Le Bab
Ben Norum12 December 2017

It happened to burgers long ago. Hot dogs have had the same treatment, and London is gradually doing the same for fish and chips, pizzas and toasties. Our city’s fast food is going gastro.

The kebab scene — dealing in late night gear for the boozed-up and desperate — has been a little slower on the uptake, but we've already seen a number of higher end versions pop onto the scene.

Namely at Chifafa, Black Axe Mangal and Camden’s Daughter. As well as at some very good Turkish restaurants, of course.

Enter Le Bab, the latest restaurant to serve up gourmet kebabs — in fact, that’s all they do.

Ottoman smoke: Le Bab

Style and surrounds

Set on the top floor of Kingly Court, Le Bab is cosy but cool. Walls are clad in Turkish-style blue and white patterned Ottoman tiles with gold features, while elsewhere an abundance of white helps the small unit feel relatively airy.

The most prominent feature of all is invisible — a blast of warm, charcoaly smoke scent that offers a lingering hug as you walk through the door.

Bambi 'bab: Roe deer with blackberry

On the menu

It’s all about the ‘babs, along with a few starters and sides. Kick off with the decidedly almighty meatlafels — falafel made with the addition of lamb mince — which are effectively juicy little koftes. Lokma — ‘doughnuts’ — filled with a rich and creamy chicken liver parfait are also worth a go.

For the main attraction, choose between pork, chicken, roe deer or paneer ‘babs. A large pig’s head version to share is also available.

Veggie kebab: Paneer

The roe deer is a particular stunner, featuring cavolo nero kimchi, Jerusalem artichoke crisps and the tangy pièce de résistance of chilli and blackberry jam. A chicken shish packed with juicy, smoky meat and — among other things — chicken crackling is a close runner-up, while the gutsy grilled paneer makes a very legitimate vegetarian alternative.

The beauty of the ‘babs lies in tasty, well-cooked meat and a fair whack of well-matched vegetable accompaniments plus the clever use of texture — hence the addition of crackling or veg crisps in many of the creations.

Of the sides it’s all about the fries, which come with a fondue dipping sauce. Yep, you can imagine.

Final flourish: Crème brûlée

Something sweet

There’s just a couple of options, a walnut sundae and an exotic-tasting crème brûlée laced with cardamom, cinnamon and cloves.

The best food in London

1/17

Liquid libations

The Smoky Sour, made with mezcal, Laphroaig whisky, lime and walnut syrup is a deep-flavoured cocktail highlight, while unlike at just about any other kebab pitstop, the wine list here is excellent — a short offering of good value bottles and glasses from less sought after regions. Bottles from West Norwood's London Beer Factory will satisfy those wanting beer with their ‘babs.

Le Bab: The Lowdown

Final flavour: Cleverly crafted kebabs in seductively smoky surrounds.

At what cost? At between £11-£13 a pop these bad boy ‘babs aren’t cheap as chips, but given the quality the price is fair.

Visit if you like: Oklava, Chifafa, Black Axe Mangal.

Follow Ben Norum on Twitter @BenNorum

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