Modern bar, modern Indian food
Anakana describes itself as a 'Chaibar', which doesn't stop the waiter opening with the line, 'Would you like a Martini while you are waiting?' And, in truth, tea bars were never like this.
The bar area has seating at the front and the dining room lies behind the bar.
All is screamingly modern.
The tables are large (if a touch low) and the stools are broad (if a touch hard-cornered); this place is edgy rather than comfortable.
It's a non-smoking environment and they don't take bookings.
But after getting that lot off one's chest, the food is good.
Old favourites like the masala dosa are well presented, crisp, thick and chewy all at the same time; the giant pancake is sound and the filling is ... filling! From the rice dishes the kale pilau is very good - grilled cuttlefish with a black ink-stained pillau.
The chennai jungli soer is a rich dish of pork belly with apples that has a good depth of flavour.
You'll also find familiar dishes like korma and rogan josh.
The tandoor and grilled dishes includes sikandari ran, which is a slow-cooked lamb shank - billed as having been marinated with vinegar; somewhat surprisingly, this pitches up on a bed of pickled red cabbage - for all the world like Lancashire hotpot.
From the bread selection pick the supremely self-indulgent bhatura - you can't beat the appeal of fried bread.
Once you have got over the incredible modernity of the place, Anakana is fun, the food prices are fair and the standard of cooking is above average.
Anakana Chaibar
1 Oliver's Yard, City Road, EC1
