Moro: Pioneering Spanish-meets-North African tapas

Few restaurants can match the quality, creativity or sheer conviviality that Moro boasts
Ben Norum1 February 2018

It’s more than two decades since Sam and Sam Clark first launched Moro at the heart of Exmouth Market, and it has been quite the pioneer.

When it burst onto the scene with its Spanish-meets-North African tapas-style dishes and zinc-topped bar, not only were the flavours exotic, but so was the small plates approach to eating and the very notion of counter dining.

Fast forward to the present day and everyone’s at it - but still few can match the quality, creativity or sheer conviviality that Moro boasts.

Varied mezze plates and grills marry the aromatic flavours of the Med and the Levant, with a charcoal grill lending succulent smoky notes to fat lamb chops and meaty brill, and a wood-fired oven enlivening skate and slow-cooked pork belly.

An excellent selection of wines representing the Spanish and Portuguese new-wave make for appropriate companions, but sherry is a must for the full experience.

Moro’s longevity is testament to just how well it pulls together all these strands, and simply how much fun it is to dine there. There’s no sign of its crown slipping yet.

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