Pollen Street Social: A showcase for fine British ingredients

Another Atherton landmark for a reliably high-end meal
1/5
David Ellis @dvh_ellis31 January 2018

Pollen Street Social is important, because it’s the restaurant that really started Jason Atherton’s transformation from straight-talking Sheffield chef in scrubbed up whites to a sharp-suited mogul who opens a new place a each morning before his breakfast espresso. In fact, if Pollen Street Social hadn’t flourished, there’s every chance Atherton wouldn’t have opened his 16 other restaurants. London would have nine fewer places from the chef himself and we’d be without the countless pretenders too. Arguably, in six years, it’s changed how we eat; it’s a landmark for those who lunch.

But is it any good? Certainly. It’s held a Michelin star since first opening in 2011, is clearly gunning for another and it’s the only one of Atherton’s places – aside from those that are brand new – where he still occasionally cooks. Food is unashamedly high end, a showcase for fine British ingredients. While not exactly ground-breaking, the menu has enough gentle surprises to keep it interesting. Things are done properly, rather than flashily, so go for something reliably high-end rather than anything ground-breaking. You pay for this, of course, but consistency always been pricey. The set lunch menu, at £37, is an excellent introduction to the way they do things.

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