Roka Aldwych: Energy, atmosphere, sushi and sizzle

The emphasis is firmly on conviviality, hospitality, setting and buzz as well as the sushi, grill and sake
Ben Norum10 December 2017

In Japanese the word Roka refers to the energy and atmosphere of a meeting between friends, and this restaurant lives up to its name.
 
The emphasis is firmly on conviviality, hospitality, setting and buzz as well as what’s cooking in the kitchen. Or not cooking as may be the case - the impeccable sushi and sashimi platters are among the highlights here, presented with dry ice and plenty of flair.
 
What is cooked is done so in style - on an open robata grill. Try seared beef with black truffle dressing or scallop skewers with wasabi and shiso, imbued with a subtle, sexy touch of smoke. The restaurant’s famous black cod is another highlight - but a seriously steep one, at more than £30 for a small plate.
 
An epic dessert platter - including a chocolate buddha and a lot of tropical fruit - is worth an order to finish, while the wine, cocktails and sake lists are all in fine form. Not cheap, mind.
 
The Roka group is run by German-born restaurateur Rainer Becker, who is also behind similarly aspirational offerings Zuma in Knightsbridge and Oblix in The Shard, and he’s clearly more about va-va-voom than value.

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