Señor Ceviche proves there’s more to Peruvian than raw fish as it opens in Fitzrovia

Cured fish is just the start of it at London’s second Señor Ceviche restaurant

Shell out: scallops with pisco, parmesan, bacon and aji amarillo chilli butter

Ben Norum4 October 2017

It’s odd to think that a mere five years ago you could barely find ceviche in London at all, while now you couldn’t hide from it if you tried.

Back in the early days there were two ventures which led the way — Ceviche, the genre-defining restaurant from Martin Morales, and a roaming market stall by the name of Señor Ceviche founded by Harry Edmeades.

That stall moved into its first bricks and mortar site within Soho’s Kingly Court back in 2014, and is now settling into its second space on Fitzrovia’s Charlotte Street.

It’s bigger than the first and comes complete with a downstairs pisco bar, and thanks to a tweaked and enlarged menu, it’s better too.

Nikkei Ceviche with tuna, fish roe, yuzu and a langoustine cracker

Obviously, the ceviche is why people come. And quite right. The classic — or El Clasico, rather — is a highlight, featuring sea bass in sharp and citrusy tiger’s milk (a garlic and chilli-spiked lime juice blend, rather than anything that comes from a big cat).

Even better is the Nikkei Ceviche which adds tuna, fish roe and Japanese yuzu along with a langoustine cracker for added crunch.

However, it’s many of the non-ceviche dishes which turn out to be highlights, and which make this new site particularly worth a visit.

Among them are plump grilled scallops, served in their shell with pisco, parmesan, bacon and a tangy aji amarillo chilli butter; a papaya-marinated steak with a bright-flavoured ‘uchucuta’ salsa; black beans cooked down with smoked bacon and Peruvian red chillies; and a grilled lamb rump with chilli miso and purple potatoes.

Grilled lamb rump with chilli miso and purple potatoes

It would be remiss not to wash some of this down with a pisco sour — which the bar team have down to a fine art — but a Peruvian Old Fashioned made with an earthy cherry, mushroom and pine infused pisco is also worth making a beeline for.

Peruvian food may not have taken over the capital in the way it once seemed set to, but its popularity is holding strong and this more mature addition to the scene will only help cement that.

Visit senor-ceviche.com.