Sophisticated restaurant, sophisticated flavours
The Painted Heron has got the balance between authenticity and modernist reinvention about right.
The food here is honest, well spiced, and not too fussily presented.
The room is cool and elegant, no flock wallpaper, nothing over the top.
Service is sound and, as in so many modern Indian establishments, a lot of effort has gone into the wine list.
The standard of cooking is high and it is no wonder that the Heron has skewered a very long list of awards.
Lunches are quiet, but in the evening this is a busy place, so you should book.
The à la carte menu changes gradually as dishes come and go.
Among the starters may be crab with red onions and chilli in dosa pancake; pigeon breasts roast in the tandoor; and calves' liver in a tandoor marinade with mango - a seriously good dish, with melty liver and a grand spike of chilli.
Mains are well conceived.
The spicing is upfront and enjoyable, and although they are Indian dishes, they are described in European terms - chicken tikka with almonds in tomato and cream curry; scallops in a spiced yogurt curry with mushrooms and spring onions; or topside of beef in a Rajasthani red-chilli paste - chunks of pleasantly chewy meat in a rich gravy.
From the veg dishes, 'asparagus, green peas in a fenugreek curry' is a belter - crunchy greenstuff and creamy methi-flavoured sauce.
Breads are terrific.
Delicious European style puds - apple pie with rose syrup.
The Painted Heron
Cheyne Walk, London, SW10 0DJ
