Tasty little hoggets

Fortunately, I live near the estimable butcher's shop The Ginger Pig, Moxon Street, off Marylebone High Street. I asked the owner which restaurants he supplies with lambs from his Yorkshire farm.

He answered Mark's Club and this award-winning new gastropub in Waterloo. 'But they want hoggets,' he said, a term that refers to a lamb more than six months old.

A traditional breed with a bit of age, well-hung, as happens at The Ginger Pig, is going to have a more pronounced flavour. Honest, vibrant tastes are what Jonathan Jones, Harry Lester and their crew bring to the table and also to the party if a group decide to share a roasted shoulder or a leg baked in hay.

Other current lamb dishes are the saddle stuffed with kidneys and sweetbreads with bacon, peas and mint. No bookings, but worth waiting hours for.

The Anchor & Hope
36 The Cut, SE1 8LP