The Modern Pantry: Don't come for plain, simple and predictable

Anna Hansen brings together expansive influences on a menu that finds room for sashimi alongside masala pork
Ben Norum7 February 2018

The Modern Pantry declares the modest aim of fusing everyday cooking with modern ingredients, but the reality is much more impressive than that.

It is run by Anna Hansen, who first made her mark in London as one of the cooks and co-owners - along with fellow New Zealander Peter Gordon - of The Providores in Marylebone, a restaurant credited with pioneering fusion food because of the way it successfully brought together unexpected ingredients and spices from around the world.

The word fusion is overused (and underwhelming) these days, but there is no other way to describe the expansive influences that Anna brings together, on a menu that finds room for sashimi alongside masala pork, and grilled ribeye with umeboshi butter next to crab arancini.

Top billing from a menu of highlights goes to her now-famous sugar-cured prawn omelette, which comes lavished with green chilli, spring onion, coriander and a smoked chilli sambal, and pulls together on one plate pretty much every dimension of flavour we know about.

Even classic cocktails get a modern twist, with a traditional bourbon-based Old Fashioned enhanced with urfa chili bitters.

One things is for sure: you don’t come here for simple, plain and predictable.

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