The Savoy Grill: One of London's most famous restaurants

The Savoy Grill
Ritzy Vegas glamour: the dining room at the Savoy Grill
David Ellis @dvh_ellis31 January 2018

The backstory: Auguste Escoffier, who lays a decent claim to being the world’s first celebrity chef, began things in 1889, welcoming the stars of the day and in the meantime inventing dishes including peche melba and the Arnold Bennett omelette. Since then, the grand old place has hosted the likes of Oscar Wilde, Churchill, the Queen, James Dean, Lord Attenborough, Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra.

The restaurant later won its first Michelin star under Marcus Wareing, then in partnership with Gordon Ramsay. It relaunched after the hotel was thoroughly refurbished and Wareing and Ramsay had acrimoniously split, and last year announced its first female chef in its history, Kim Woodward.

Who goes there? There’s something of a ritzy 50s Vegas lounge about the Grill’s decor, so it’s only proper it hosts the big names. George and Amal Clooney have been known to swing by and Pippa Middleton was recently spotted at the hotel. It’s said David and Victoria Beckham, Sir Tom Jones and Sir Tim Rice are fans.

Still, as you wander in, remember that once upon a time, Billy Smart (of Billy Smart’s Circus) arrived with a leopard which he promptly tethered outside. They don’t make ‘em like they used to.

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What’s on the menu? Fine-dining comfort food: traditional British fare in a tailored dressing gown. They’ve the likes of steak, ale and onion pudding with shallot gravy, Beef Wellington, shrimp cocktail, French onion soup: the stuff that makes you rub your shoulders and go ‘Oooo’ and ‘Mmmm’ and earn yourself odd looks from The Date.

There’s more here should you want it: we saw great herds of cattle being hauled across the restaurant for the grill-lovers, looking and smelling so good I made movements to leave our table and sit down with whoever had ordered the rib-eye – another move that, unsurprisingly, didn't thrill The Date either. This is when I befriended the sommelier. Can confirm wine both terrific and sympathetic.

Seductive: the Grill lives up to its name with a selection of meat and fish cooked in a wood charcoal oven

Still, we made do: baked Hereford snails came cuddled in sweet garlic, red wine and brioche crumbs, much richer and heartier than snails often are. Roast wood pigeon came the colour of Christmas velvet, with a texture to match, and underneath the fois gras managed a little crispiness, given a little shake and woken up with a Madiera jus. There’s also an impressive array of fish on offer.

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Puddings continue the comfort, with the likes of apple crumble soufflé and sturdy, wobbling rhubarb and custard mille-feuille. The Crêpe Suzette offers theatre, made practically from scratch beside the table, a fizzing performance ending delightfully with brandy burning up the air and other people openly lamenting their diets. Unusually, in a nod to the past, there are also ‘Savouries’ on offer afterwards, including Welsh Rarebit.

Cheque out: Starters £9 - £16, mains from around £25 - £40, sides around £5, puddings around £10. Cocktails at £15, wine from around £30 a bottle, rising sharply. They also offer a reasonably priced pre/post theatre menu, at £24 for two courses or £28 for three.

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