The White Bear, Kennington: A proper pub that's just a bit gastro

A Kennington pub has had a refurb at a right old age
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Ben Norum12 December 2017

After closing earlier in the year this once beloved neighbourhood boozer with a theatre upstairs has reopened as a Young’s pub.

How much of a good thing that is will divide opinion: on the one hand it has been incorporated into a massive pub chain, on the other it hasn’t been turned into flats.

A visit may go some way to assuage those who aren’t so keen, as Young’s have taken particular care with this project — the company references it as one of its most significant, and so they should given the pub dates back no fewer than 236 years and boasts some impressive original features.

They’ve done a good job. It’s out with beer-stained carpet, dingy walls and dark corners and in with tastefully photograph-clad walls, deliberately dishevelled-looking wood features, shelves with assorted knick-knacks (many of them with some relevance to the local area), sofas and booths — not to forget a rather large statue of a bear.

While the front area is all about drinking — and there’s a very decent selection of both classic ales and London-based craft brews — a back area is made for eating, with full table service and a gastropub menu.

Starters include a garlicky mini chicken kiev and a ham hock terrine with a crisp battered egg. Both are simple yet successful renditions of proper pub grub, while a main course chicken, ham and leek pie with a fluffy puff pastry top is a comforting, homely dish destined to please. Accompanying mash is enjoyably buttery, and rosemary fries pert and crisp.

For pudding an apple and berry crumble — which wins points for coming with a generously sized jug of custard — is delightful in its familiarity, but a chocolate and raspberry tart disappointingly cloying.

The White Bear serves top pub grub, but not elevated gastro fare. This might mean you’re better sticking to the Scotch eggs, roasts and pies than any of the more complex dishes, but it also means it retains its character rather than becoming a restaurant with a bar.

Modern pubs struggle to get the right balance between their food and drink offerings, but this Kennington spot has got it bang on.

The White Bear: The Lowdown

Final flavour: A proper pub with a gastro touch.

At what cost? It’s eminently reasonable, with starters from £5 and mains from £12.

Visit standard.co.uk/restaurants for the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

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