The Wolseley: A buzzy room with wide ranging options for all day dining

Glamour and grandeur in one of London's favourite grand European restaurants
Fay Maschler31 January 2018

As AA Gill said after his first visit in 2003: “It’s a restaurant that has been made from the front door in, not from the kitchen out.” Whether you are seated in the central horseshoe of the resplendent space — he was, I sometimes am — actually matters not a jot as the emphasis on seamless service never alters. Running a restaurant open from 7am to midnight is as arduous as operating a hotel but without room revenue to cushion the effort. Chris Corbin and Jeremy King struggled at first but cracked it and brought to life the Hilaire Belloc observation that “breakfast, dinner, lunch and tea is all the human frame requires”. You go to The Wolseley for time out. You might be in the mood for mittel-European schnitzel or Anglo-Indian kedgeree, oysters or Alsace choucroute. It is all available and will be brought on stylish china and set on fine linen. Here too the restaurant breakfast habit was born.

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