Tom Simmons Tower Bridge: MasterChef star cooks up a Welsh feast… but don’t expect any daffodils

This is food designed to feed diners rather than egos, says Ben Norum
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Ben Norum12 December 2017

If you’re after leek soup, daffodils and dragons, then the first restaurant from Tom Simmons may not be for you.

While much of the pre-publicity behind the launch has focused on it being out-and-out Welsh, the Pembrokeshire-born chef (who reached the quarter finals of MasterChef: The Professionals in 2011) has chosen good food over gimmick. He might be proud of his heritage but his restaurant is no homage to it.

That means Welsh cakes and rarebit give way to influences from France and Italy as well as other parts of the UK, but clever ways with the country’s abundant produce are still very much its signature.

Moreish deep-fried Welsh cockles (cockle popcorn) are served as a bar snack, with a laverbread mayonnaise for dipping — like salty jewels. Then, at the table, tangy sourdough comes with a leek butter that has been whipped to such a delectable lightness you could eat it like Angel Delight.

The restaurant is the first to open in the new One Tower Bridge development, and its glass-fronted, boxy modern building is not the easiest to bring character to. There will shortly be a 900-seat theatre (and yet another Ivy Brasserie) nearby, which might help bring a bit of bustle, but for now the food is doing a good job of energising the space.

Cross the border: beef shortrib

Scallops (from Scotland, not Wales) are a highlight of the starters: plump, gently cooked and tender, served with smoked ham hock and charred baby gem. In contrast to their delicate creaminess, a chicken liver and lardo terrine is bolshy and rich with iron-like meatiness — a treat paired with a port and shallot chutney and brioche.

When it comes to main courses, it is no surprise that lamb is high on the list. A juicy rump, served a vibrant pink at the centre, is simple but effective with salsa verde and puréed aubergine. It’s not treason to cross the border for a beef shortrib, though. Served soft enough to make a knife unnecessary, along with pancetta, roast baby onions and a red wine sauce; it is the kind of food made to be enjoyed not evaluated.

A wibbly wobbly custard tart is a strong and stable pudding option which owes more to Portugal than Pembrokeshire, while a warm dark chocolate mousse served with a scoop of sweet ice cold passionfruit sorbet shows a fine understanding of the art of contrast.

Wales can boast some increasingly good wine these days, but the predominantly Old Word offerings on the list here, including an earthy, plummy Chinon, are still a safer bet, while at the small bar downstairs, a short selection of cocktails is also served.

It’s easy to see how Simmons made it so far in MasterChef, and all the more refreshing to find him here cooking dishes far less fancified than most alumini of the show — food designed to feed diners rather than egos.

It’s clever, creative and proportionately patriotic. It’s not as Welsh as could be, but it’s anything but sheepish.

Tom Simmons Tower Bridge: The lowdown

Final Flavour: Clever cooking and patriotic produce from a Welsh master chef.

At what cost? Starters from £8.50, mains from £18.50 and puddings from £7.50.

Visit if you like: The Game Bird, The Harwood Arms, Roast.

Find it: 2 Still Walk, SE1 2RA; tom-simmons.co.uk

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