Tramshed, review: Chickens and cows rule the roost

Industrial chic rules from floor to quadruple-height ceiling in Mark Hix’s Shoreditch outfit Tramshed, which found its home in the commanding space of – you guessed it – a former tram generator building.

When it comes to the food, Tramshed is about two things; chickens and cows. And boy, do you know about it.

You don’t have to be Sherlock Holmes to detect the first clue as to the restaurant’s ardent passions: a formaldehyde-filled vitrine containing an entire, feathery chicken sat on the back of entire, hairy cow, courtesy of Mark Hix’s friend and business partner Damien Hirst.

There is little ambiguity on your plate either. A whole roast chicken is presented at the table: trussed up, head over heels (quite literally), feet and all. There are six cuts of Mighty Marbled Glenarm Estate steak to choose from, as a barbecued sugar-pit beef short rib, fat-riddled and salty with a sauce that balances this rather than swamping it with sweetness.

Somewhat surprisingly, vegetarians need not dismay, with a fully-fledged, pretty diverse and just as indulgent meat-free menu, including a mac and cheese burger made with Black Cow cheddar, who also produce the world’s only Pure Milk vodka.