Veneta, St James’s: Splendid seafood as Venice gets the tapas treatment

The team behind Opera Tavern and Ember Yard is looking to Venice for its fifth restaurant opening
Ben Norum12 December 2017

The Salt Yard Group is responsible for some of the most reliably enjoyable restaurants in London, in my opinion at least.

Its mix of charcuterie, small plates, wines and conviviality straight out of Spain and Italy proves to be a winning formula time and time again whether at the original Salt Yard in Fitzrovia or sister sites Dehesa, Opera Tavern and Ember Yard across the West End.

Site number five comes in the form of Veneta which, like those which have come before it, blends a similar concept with a few unique flourishes all of its own.

In this case, it has been strongly influenced by Venice — hence the name — and thus gives fish and seafood a particular prominence. This even extends to fishscale tiles, a marine blue colour scheme and bathroom lamps shaped as shells — but in a stylish, St James’s way rather than a tacky My Little Mermaid themed way.

Veneta: Team tapas go Venetian
Tolga Akmen

This influence means shunning the Spanish side of things for the first time in favour of a fuller Italian focus, including serving pasta and risotto. Don’t worry, though. Whether labelled as Venetian cicchetti, snacks or small plates, much of any meal here will consist of what you or I would think of as tapas. Just minus the croquetas.

Do start with something from the raw bar (another first for the group), perhaps a mackerel tartare with lively fennel pollen, or sublimely silky-soft red prawns (gambero rosso) with lemon and rosemary which are actually Portuguese in origin. Our waiter explains that Veneta is not a Venetian restaurant, it is simply inspired by the region and that this is why it is able to serve them. It’s a good job.

Raw bar: Dishes including gambero rosso and mackerel tartare

Shiny smoked anchovies served with melting butter are another decadent nibble, while charcoal-grilled monkfish channels similar influences: it is topped with buttery breadcrumbs and served with a soft stew of salsify laced with anchovy.

For something meatier, try the roast duck which comes with peverada sauce, made with finely chopped duck liver along with pepper, shallots and — you guessed it — anchovies. It is every bit as rich and intense as you’d guess from that majestic lineup, and the tender duck meat with crispy skin is its crowning glory.

Comfort food: White polenta with girolles and parmesan

A dish of gooey white polenta with girolles and parmesan is slurp-tastic comfort food and its most tasty, while in typical Salt Yard Group style there is also charcuterie and cheese aplenty — though less than at its other restaurants.

Primary reason to return comes in the form of untried sharing-size plates of either aged T-Bone steak with a Marsala and girolle sauce or a grilled half octopus served with peperonata and polenta.

There is an abundance of excellent and interesting Italian wines available to wash these plates down, and staff appear well-versed in pairing wines with an often diverse set of dishes. It’s just a shame that there aren’t a few more available by the glass to make exploring them a little easier.

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Cinnamon-dusted frittelle — Venetian doughnuts — served with a selection of sauces are an indulgent end note, though would have been all the more so had they been hot. A gelato bar offering cool creations in flavour combinations such as pistachio, candied orange and cardamom is also worth exploring.

Veneta: The Lowdown

Final flavour: Splendid seafood and characteristic conviviality from the Salt Yard team.

At what cost? Cicchetti are between £3 and £5 and small plates range from £4 to £12 with raw bar options rising to £16. The prices are reasonable for the quality you’re getting, but be aware that it could also add up reasonably quickly.

Visit if you like: Bocca di Lupo, Tozi, Ember Yard.

Find it: 3 Norris Street, SW1Y 4RJ; saltyardgroup.co.uk/veneta

Visit standard.co.uk/restaurants for the latest news and reviews from London’s food scene.

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