Charles Campion is The Smart Shopper

There's no doubt about it, we are nudging into the best time of the year. Between now and the height of summer there will be a continual stream of "firsts" to delight any cook. Last week the first wild seatrout made an appearance. They're not cheap but they are magnificent. The true seatrout (rather than rainbow trout that have been farmed in a sea cage) is a wild brown trout which for some reason has gone to live in the sea for a while. When they swim back upstream from those rich feeding grounds they are plump, fit and taste delicious. Grill with butter. Fresh wild seatrout from Caithness in Scotland, limited supply, £27.50 per kilo from the Chelsea Fishmonger, 10 Cale Street, SW3 (020 7589 9432).

Sweet dreams

The Comptoir Gourmand is a small bakery and patissier on Whitecross Street, EC1. Every Tuesday it sets out its stall on the edge of Leadenhall Market. Look out for large, perky meringues (£2.50), seriously rich chocolate fondant cakes (£2) and traditional Portuguese custard tarts — pastis de Nata (£1.50).
Comptoir Gourmand, 126 Whitecross Street, EC1 (020 7490 2828, leadenhallmarket.co.uk).

King of the mangoes

While we may have forgotten Alphonso de Albuquerque (1453-1515), a military strategist who ended up as Viceroy of Portuguese India, we certainly know all about the mango to which he gave his name. It is a moot point as to whether the Viceroy did introduce this mega-mango to India but everyone agrees that the Alphonso mango is special. It has a short season, astonishing honeyed sweetness and a floral perfume. Head to Southall and you'll find boxes of Alphonso sold from the pavement. At the Green Valley supermarket in W1 they cost £16 for a box of 12 — a bargain.
Green Valley, 36 Upper Berkeley St, W1 (020 7402 7385).