London Fashion Week: We round up the trends to remember from the last five days of fashion

Christopher Kane’s tribute to Louise Wilson was just one of the moments to remember at London Fashion Week. Karen Dacre and Emma McCarthy round up the best trends
Best bits: Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, House of Holland and Whistles all put on SS15 spectacles
Emma McCarthy30 September 2014

Christopher Kane

As the words “please don’t you cry” swarmed above the catwalk in the Turbine Hall in the Tate Modern yesterday, Christopher Kane delivered his eulogy to the life of Central Saint Martin’s tutor Louise Wilson, with a collection that served as a retrospective of his finest work.

Returning to the idea of cords and ropes — an inspiration at college — Kane presented a series of architectural cut-away gowns that came bursting with layers of silk tulle and detailed with heavy-duty metal flourishes. It was the perfect juxtaposition of tough and gentle. Clearly in a nostalgic mood, Kane took his colour inspiration from his school uniform, presenting gowns in claret and school-shirt blue. This was British innovation dressed up for the luxury customer. It was the apprentice becoming the master.

Hunter Original

With the first spring/summer Hunter collection from Alasdhair Willis’s came anoraks — and lots of them. Well on their way to becoming the only thing to keep dry in next season, this lightweight, fling-it-over-your-school-uniform-inspired jacket should be oversized and worn teamed with layering. For Willis that meant anoraks teamed with socks, pool slides and super-soft chunky knits. Think German rambling holiday chic.

Jonathan Saunders

Is fashion’s fascination with the frock over? Perhaps for the time being, as separates took centre-stage on next season’s catwalks. For Jonathan Saunders, the hero was the trouser suit — reimagined for spring with delicate touches of foliage. In a palette of cornflower and forest green, the Scottish designer embroidered ferns and appliquéd petals onto tailoring shaped into soft silhouettes with bow-tied waists and tulip hems.

London Fashion Week Round-up

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J W Anderson

Just a few short weeks before debuting his first collection for Spanish luxury giant Loewe, Jonathan Anderson charmed the London fashion masses with an upscale version of his eponymous line. Debuting a sophisticated collection splayed with leather details, Anderson put a smooth knit dress at the top of our wish lists for next spring. Think block geometric prints and your nan’s living room carpet — in a good way.

House of Holland

The Nineties may be occupying the attention of designers everywhere, but none can claim a dedication quite like Henry Holland. The designer, whose career began with “Fashion Groupies” slogan tees, once again used music’s greatest hangers-on as his muse for his latest House of Holland collection. The result? A Nineties girl who harked back to the golden age of Jim Morrison with psychedelic floral denim, A-line minis and Woodstock-worthy kick flares.

Whistles

Fashion purists are praying for a cool summer in 2015 thanks to an influx of leather but here’s the good news: next season’s key leather looks involve air vents — and lots of them. For the design team at Whistles this meant dresses and oversized coats perforated with large laser-cut teardrops while at Mulberry, leather dresses and tops were cut to create a trellis effect.

Roksanda Ilincic

Full-circle skirts weren’t just a ubiquitous trend among the front row during this week round of shows but a feature on the catwalk. Proof of its longevity came via Roksanda Ilincic, who offered a thoroughly modern take on the classic with eye-popping photographic prints, velvet-embroidered and sheer circular cut-aways. Neon longline sweatshirts and jackets also took the standard silhouette in a fresh new direction.

Richard Nicoll

Nicoll’s spring/summer girl is one who looks better on her way out of the gym than she does going in, so good in fact, that her next stop is the pub. Fusing codes from the sports world with his signature utilitarian style, the designer’s vision is a look that requires layers worn with oversized accents. Expect to see fashion die-hards layering vests and slip dresses over jersey crop tops.

Burberry

Burberry didn’t call time on the trench coat this week but it did push it aside momentarily to make way for the denim jacket. Occupied by streetwear, Christopher Bailey was clearly feeling a Nineties vibe when creating this offering. Dressed up for the high-paying customers, the Burberry jacket comes in a host of incarnations including with PVC collar and an ostrich feather peplum.

Topshop Unique

Breathable fabric may not sound like a likely contender for the catwalk, but Topshop Unique has succeeding in turning Aertex-esque material into a fashionable commodity. Even — dare I say it — a sexy one. In a palette of sky blue, cherry red and chalk white, the brand’s high-end offered collegiate gym wear with colour-block ribbed vests, accordion-pleat tennis skirts and sporty thigh-skimming minidresses. Perfect for both play and posing.

Erdem

It may be spring on the catwalk but London Fashion Week’s finest know that we Brits still need a steady supply of knitwear. Erdem Moralioglu may be best known for his show-stopping gowns, but yesterday saw knitwear join the party. Of course, these weren’t any old cover-ups but delicate fine gauze knits worthy of any red carpet. Particularly when teamed with a foliage-strewn statement skirt.

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