Oscar de la Renta targets a more laid-back luxury shopper at New York Fashion Week with collection suited to a more understated cocktail hour

A stream of models including Bella Hadid descended escalators to arrive on the show's runway
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Emma McCarthy12 September 2017

Oscar de la Renta may be a name synonymous with black tie glamour and fairytale ballgowns, but the label courted a more casual customer at it’s latest New York Fashion Week showcase.

Under the charge of new creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who unveiled their sophomore collection for the house yesterday, cocktail hour dressing became a more understated affair with sequin t-shirts layered under bustier dresses and short suits in colour pop shades of bubblegum pink and teal providing a relaxed alternative to the tuxedo.

Continuing in their quest to ensure the label is as relevant to the laid-back luxury shopper as it is the Hollywood A-lister, the showcase began with a series of off-duty separates, offering up mannish paint splattered shirts and cropped denim jackets worn with straight-cut jeans.

As the stream of models continued to descend the escalators at the top of Sotheby’s headquarters in Manhattan’s Upper East Side, crisp cotton and denim soon gave way to silk, tulle and sequins.

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But even the most dazzling after dark options had an air of nonchalance with pink and monochrome striped parkas thrown over sheer sheath dresses and the glitziest fabrics reserved for minimalist slips.

The duo, who worked for Oscar de la Renta for a combined 18 years before leaving shortly after the death of its founder in 2014 to launch their own label, returned to the brand a year ago to take their place at its helm.

Alongside their roles, the husband and wife team continue to design their fashion line Monse which claimed it’s own spot on the New York Fashion Week schedule last Friday.

Offering a younger, sportier breed of dressing with luxe track pants and sequin basketball jerseys taking to the catwalk last week, their contemporary label is distinctly different from de la Renta’s legacy as a go-to among Park Avenue socialites and America's First Ladies.

With Monse quickly establishing a stronghold of high profile fans including Selena Gomez, Rihanna and Zoe Kravitz, Kim and Garcia’s cool-girl clientele has also brought a new celebrity circle to Oscar de la Renta - including rapper Nicki Minaj who despite the balmy temperatures outside took her seat at yesterday’s showcase wearing a knee-length hooded fur coat.

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But despite the attention of these new admirers, the designers were keen to ensure that the house’s established customer base was not overlooked.

As a result, the show culminated in a display of spectacular finale gowns including crystal-dipped column dresses and strapless tiered silk creations.

Though even amid this most classic formal attire, Kim and Garcia still managed to sneak in one or two more adventurous propositions, from neon ombre tulle gowns to a full skirted gown with "Oscar" spelt out in giant sequins letters.

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