A new exhibition has opened explaining the definitive history of T-shirts

Puffed sleeves, frilled collars and pussy bows — this season, it’s what’s underneath that counts
Coach
Hannah Rochell6 February 2018

Who could have predicted that in 2018, more than 100 years after the T-shirt first emerged from the world of undergarments to become an acceptable piece of clothing in its own right, that you would be reading an article about it still being one of the most contemporary items in your wardrobe. In fact, an article that touts the idea that this season, the T-shirt even requires an undergarment of its own.

But with nearly every luxury brand offering a slogan tee — and we’re not talking the naff label logos of the Eighties here but witty phrases and colourful motifs from the likes of Gucci, Loewe and Prada — and an exhibition dedicated to the subject opening this week, they have scarcely been more relevant.

T-shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion opens at The Fashion and Textile Museum on Friday. It will showcase more than 100 rare groundbreaking examples of this everyday garment, including pieces from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren from the Seventies, and more modern designs from the likes of Christian Dior, whose “We Should

All Be Feminist” T-shirts were probably the most photographed of last year. Accompanying the main exhibition will be T: A Typology of T-Shirts — pictures from American photographer Susan Barnett’s book by the same name — which explores the cultural relevance of the graphic images seen on people wearing T-shirts in the street.

Alexa Chung

Of course, the popularity and success of the T-shirt lies in its ability to be worn by anyone, regardless of age, shape or gender. So how do you make your jersey stand out from the crowd, even if you’ve chosen a slogan that’s not particularly politically driven?

On the spring/summer 2018 catwalks there were lessons in ways to wear the humble slub for the new season in every city. At Louis Vuitton in Paris, a Stranger Things tee — one not actually available buy from the label but which was thrown in as a natty styling trick — was shown worn over a billowing medieval-style blouse.

Louis Vuitton

At Ashish in London, its jersey slogans, which included the phrases “Good Mourning” and “Queer”, were popped on top of a satin pussy-bow.

Ashish

Meanwhile, in New York, Coach favoured the classic all-American look of a long-sleeved tee under a short-sleeved one but the message was still clear: this season, wear something under your T-shirt — preferably with a collar and a large sleeve — for a simple update. See the new season from ALEXACHUNG for details; inspired by Britpop, it has an abundance of slogan T-shirts including the “Fantastic” tee in the style of Elastica’s eponymous debut album, and the Pulp- inspired “Hardcore” example you see here, styled with the label’s frilly oversized shirt underneath. Elsewhere, try Topshop’s balloon sleeve striped blouse, Zara’s checked blouse with leg o’mutton sleeves, or Kitri’s Myriam pinstripe top for undershirts with that all-important arm-factor.

As for the T-shirt itself, whether you opt for a luxury logo, a band tee or a sassy slogan, the chances are it will still be as desirable in decades to come as it is today. Because it’s always time for tee.

T-shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion runs from February 9 until May 6 at The Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1. From £7, ftmlondon.org

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