Ljubljana, Slovenia: where to eat, drink, visit and stay

Your guide to the Slovenian beating heart, which is nicknamed the Dragon City
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Matt Hryciw10 November 2016

Twenty-five years after the end of communist rule, Slovenia’s enchanting capital, Ljubljana, is brimming with confidence. Tucked beneath Castle Hill, the European Green Capital and its squares buzz with students who form the core of its creative scene. Nicknamed the Dragon City, it’s Slovenia’s beating heart.

Where to stay

Ljubljana's old town is dominated by independently run historical hotels and B&Bs, with the LESAR HOTEL ANGEL among the best. Set over three floors right on the storied Gornji Square, the penthouse suite with its sprawling private terrace is a perfect spot to enjoy a crisp glass of local Malvazija. Double rooms with breakfast from £160. (angelhotel.si)

The private terrace at Lesar Hotel Angel

What to see

Make your way along the café-lined embankment of the Ljubljanica river across the famous Triple Bridge, designed by famed local architect Jože Plečnik, who left his indelible art-nouveau mark on the modern city. Then take a 15-minute hike up to Ljubljana Castle for 360-degree views of the capital and the Alps beyond, or take the funicular up and then walk down through winding passageways. LJUBLJANANJAM FOOD WALK tour mixes history and architecture with a tempting variety of Slovenian culinary pit-stops along the way. (ljubljananjam.si)

Where to eat

Find craft beer and a bite to eat with the city’s cool kids at riverside TOZD, or refuel with a bowl of Istrian minestrone at Učilna okusov, with its emphasis on all things local. For dinner, try Julija on Stari Square, where you can feast on truffles with sheep’s cheese and home-made ravioli. Don’t forget to pick up a bottle of Slovenian staple, deliciously nutty pumpkin-seed oil, from Oliviers & Co nearby.

Učilna okusov

Where to shop

Ljubljana’s CENTRAL MARKET near the famous Dragon Bridge is a great place to start, with indoor stalls offering regional specialities from juicy Carniolan sausage to dried Dalmatian figs. The freshest seasonal produce from Slovenia’s orchards, farms and vineyards is laid out just outside in Vodnik Square every day except Sundays. For distinctly Slovenian folk art and craft, head to Skrina along the river at Breg 8, well-stocked with fine Idrija lace, painted eggs and one-of-a-kind ceramics. (skrina.si)

Where to go

Relatively unknown in the UK, the 24km-long Postojna Cave is Europe’s most visited, and located just 40 minutes from the capital. You can soak up its otherworldly rock formations on a combined train and walking tour. Feeling adventurous? Strap on a helmet and descend even deeper on a guided adventure tour. Game of Thrones fans will want to keep an eye out for the rare and eyeless amphibians called olms, said to resemble baby dragons. Combine a cave tour with a stop at fairy-tale Predjama Castle nearby, built right into the mouth of a cave. (postojnska-jama.eu)

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