How to buy a bespoke engagement ring in London

Here are 3 top tips to turn your idea into reality
Rosie Shephard12 December 2017

With family stones from Princess Diana’s personal collection and a stunning diamond from Botswana where the couple recently holidayed, we must all agree, he absolutely aced it.

A bespoke ring, however, need not be reserved for the royal, rich or famous.

If you're looking to design a bespoke engagement ring, follow our three simples rules:

1. Find a jeweller you trust

Unless a modern day dandy or a sports car collector, it's likely that the engagement ring will be one of the most expensive purchases you ever make, not to mention the most important. It is vital to proceed with caution. Finding the right jeweller is crucial so do start by asking around friends and family and researching the jewellers in your area, noting when you see a style you particularly like. This will help you build up a picture of your options. This is not something that can be done online as you will need to see actual samples of their work as well as ensuring the legitimacy of the business to know you are in safe hands.

On making contact, it is very important that you define your budget from the outset. A bespoke ring will be more expensive as more time is needed for discussion and the cost of labour will be higher. However, if using existing materials such as a family stone, it can reduce the price tag. Working with a private gem dealer such as Neil Duttson of Duttson Rocks or Julie Richter of Diamond Designs can be more cost effective than one of the better known retailers.

It is important to feel comfortable with the jeweller you are working with, whether it is the designer or a sales rep. Jessica McCormack is a London favourite who is known for her creation of bespoke pieces created from her elegant London townhouse studio. Jessica will spend time getting to know the client personally by sitting with them in her library and discussing their likes and dislikes and getting to know the style of the bride-to-be.

She will then spend some time translating their personal story into several hand-drawn sketches before creating the final perfect design. Jordanian bespoke jewelry duo, Elham & Issa, take things further by coming out to your home for the consultancy. Artist Elham, will hand-draw designs while listening to your vision whilst working with pencils, pastels and coloured inks that will then be bought to life ‘from ink to gold’.

James Amos, Director of beloved British jeweller Boodles, says, “Choosing our bespoke service gives you the freedom to play with ideas and create something that is totally unique. All of our engagement rings are hand-crafted in one of our London workshops. An engagement ring signifies such an important moment in a client’s life and being able to put a personal, unique spin on a cherished item of jewellery adds to the significance of the occasion.”

Prince Harry and Meghan Markle engagement announcement

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2. Get inspired

Take to Pinterest to narrow down the style of ring you are looking for and to help you see the elements you are drawn to. It is important to think of your bride’s personal style, to remember that bigger is not always better and to note whether she usually wears silver, platinum, white gold or yellow gold. Bringing screen shots on your phone to the appointment will be a great starting point when discussing the choice of gems, colour and cut, and any different era influences.

Neil Duttson of Duttson Rock,s a bespoke ring specialist says, “You can add your own ‘secrets’, whether a design or particular cut of diamond, a personal message or even by adding your birthstones within the band that would be invisible to others. Some couples like to have engraving or even add GPS coordinates of where they first met or where he went down on bended knee.” Rumour has it Neil recently created Made in Chelsea star Milly Mackintosh’s engagement ring from Hugo Taylor.

Throughout the process, it is of course important to adhere to your ideas but also to take heed of the technical knowledge offered. Do also keep the wedding ring in mind; this may also have to be custom-designed to fit around the engagement ring if a ‘feature’ piece of jewellery. It is also possible to think long term about a lifetime of gifts. Jessica McCorkmack has invented the ‘party jacket’, a bespoke ‘surrounding’ to your existing engagement ring to create an entirely new piece. Yes please.

3. Don’t be in a rush

Do allow months and not weeks for this process. I would recommend a minimum of two months – two weeks for consultancy and design-led appointments and another six weeks for delivery. Depending on the jeweller, you will first be presented with a rendering or sketch, but maybe even a wax model of the ring.

It is important to ask for everything in writing and have a letter of agreement defining all that will be included - purity of metal, delivery date and final price as well as a grading report on the carat, cut, colour and clarity of the stones. Ensure that your ring’s appraisal report, which is needed for insurance, notes that the ring is custom-designed and by whom. This will affect the replacement value set by your insurance company. And one last tip, do go ahead and sort the insurance once you have a yes. Pay a monthly fee for life someone somewhat dampens the romance of it all...

And that’s it, simple as 1,2,3.

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