Nantes has a little bit of everything — baroque architecture, great food and a thriving arts scene

Head there in the summer to see the city at its vibrant best, says Clara Dorrington
Clara Dorrington7 June 2018

Nantes, on the Loire River, is an artsy city with plenty of charm. Clara Dorrington explores...

Where to eat

La Cigale, a culinary institution since 1895, has often been used as a backdrop for French movies, such as in Jacques Demy’s Lola (1961), owing to its impressive art deco design. Taste traditional Breton dishes, from steak tartare to moreish desserts (above), at their best. For a more casual affair, La Cantine du Voyage (below) is the perfect pit stop for those following the Voyage à Nantes art trail. With an ethical ‘allotment to table’ mantra, it’s easy to see why locals have taken to it.

Where to shop

If you find yourself window shopping in Nantes, you’ll be known to the locals as a ‘Crébilloner’, which comes from the city’s most exclusive shopping street, rue Crébillon (below). Whether you’re a dedicated designer label buff or a Crébilloner, the area is worth a visit simply to gaze at all the things money could buy. Stock up on holiday gifts from Nantes’ oldest chocolatier, Debotté-Gautier, where local delicacies include Mascaron Nantais pralines and fruit berlingots.

Alamy Stock Photo

What to do

Every July and August the city erupts in cultural splendour as the Voyage à Nantes art festival takes residence and global artists make the port city their open-air gallery. Follow the green tape across a 10km route through more than 50 installations. One of the many highlights is Les Anneaux by Daniel Buren and Patrick Bouchain, a series of 18 giant neon rings (left) along the quayside. A visit to Les Machines de l’île is also a must. Located in a disused shipyard, this theme park with a difference showcases giant mechanical animals (the elephant being the star of the show) that ‘walk’ along the dockyard, carrying up to 50 visitors at a time. The gargantuan Musée d’Arts reopened its doors last year following a six-year-long renovation. The 17,000 sq m space hosts works by Picasso, Rodin and Monet, to name a few. This summer’s big show is by legendary American light artist, James Turrell.

Where to stay

The city is an architectural treasure chest, but for a room with a difference, try Sozo Hotel. This 19th-century former nunnery has been thoughtfully modernised into a sumptuous eco hotel, while retaining its original stonework and stained-glass windows. The sleek, minimalist white interiors (right) are offset by furniture from design supremo Ron Arad. Rooms from £111 (sozohotel.fr)

How to get there

Flying to Nantes takes less than one and a half hours. Fly direct from Gatwick with easyJet. One way from £26 (easyjet.com)

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