The discerning drinker: best picks from London International Wine Fair
This week the entire British wine trade — and many wine producers — have descended on the ExCeL centre in Canning Town for the annual London International Wine Fair. It's a vast jamboree, viewed as much with trepidation for its exhausting unmanageability (by me, for instance) as for the excitement of the wines and people there.
If nothing else, though, it proves the UK's openness. I'd be lying if I said I was impressed by the Indian wines I tried — but they (and the Mexicans, Brazilians and Georgians) were getting much more of a look-in than they ever would in France.
More exciting for me were some of the wines from odder corners of Europe, such as Krauthaker's lovely, elegant 2007 pinot noir (Croatia) or Simcic's Duet Lex 2005 (Slovenia), a serious Bordeaux blend. To say nothing of some stunning Catalan reds from Mallorca and Emporda.
The one drawback is that such exotic treats are rarely available here. However, the following are a few other favourites from the fair that are slightly easier to find.
Vergelegen Chardonnay Reserve 2008, Stellenbosch (Jeroboams, £14.25)
A big, rich South African chardonnay from a leading producer — powerful, with a fair bit of oak, but with a balancing freshness too.
Svirce Plavac Mali 2007, Hvar (Waitrose, £9.79 reduced to £6.49 until June 2)
A Croatian red from the local plavac grape, this is soft, with generous plummy fruit, but a decent backbone too. Very enjoyable.
Viñalba Malbec Reserva 2008, Lujan de Cuyo (Roberson, 348 Kensington High St, W14, has the excellent 2007, £8.95; 2008 in Majestic from next month)
This strapping Argentine red was a deserved Decanter gold medal winner: very rich, bursting with sweet fruit, but with lovely balance and length too. Get out the barbie!
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2007, IGT Veronese (winedirect.co.uk, £14.25: you can mix cases, delivery £7/case; Roberson has the very good 2006, £15.95)
This fine Valpolicella has a perfect balance of sweet fruit with sour cherry bitterness, smooth yet refreshing. An International Wine Challenge winner.
